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#pinrepair

9 posts5 participants0 posts today

I suspect this is not good any more.

Jackbot had an odd power issue, I lost the flashers at random so I had to investigate. Surely enough, no power until I poked left side of this fuse. At first I suspected the fuse holder, until I pulled the fuse and this happened.

Every time Jackbot is being serviced, I check the condition of one of the first bigger 3D printed pinball parts I made back in the days. This guide rail for the moving target bank is not available as a separate part, so you have to buy the whole thing if it breaks.

I got so annoyed I modelled a sturdier version of it. This is one of the prototypes, that has been in use for over 3 years now, without any cracks or other problems.

I later released the model, so anyone needing can print out their own:
thingiverse.com/thing:6964621

This is not the way, Mando. I don't know what triggered this, but it wasn't an open coin door. Somehow it wouldn't want to talk to any of the node boards until a reboot. Curiously all the node boards were alive judging from their LEDs.

Early Stern White Star games (2000...) had often these colorful miniatyre bulbs. In a lot of Williams games they used normal clear ones with a silicone hood (which we promptly named bulb condoms) to change the color. Stern instead used painted lamps. I have a good collection of all the colors to keep these early 2000s games looking original. I also kinda like how the painted bulbs look.

Let's play "spot the dead lamps" game.

It's Judge Dredd's turn to get washed and waxed. Running the lamp test is normal part of the cleanup service on these incandencent light bulb using machines.

I can spot some dead feature lamps and at least one dead flasher.

This thing's a bit tricky printable, but my second attempt resulted in a passable proto of the Who Dunnit's slot reel. I did not expect the lens-like magnifying effect it has! Also I had to crank up the temperature a lot, the first print at 240c resulted in a lot less clear outcome. I think the layers could be even larger in the next one. Note that even as is this would work just fine.

I encountered an odd problem with Jaws. I booted the game up to check it before cleaning and I had an operator alert about the shark fin being disabled. The game asked me to run the test to enable it, I ran it back and forth couple of times and could not immediately see any of the position optos do anything funny.

As you can see from the video, the solenoid that kicks the shark fin up is pretty violent, these games suffer from so many solder cracks in connections thanks to the lead free solder used, although I assume the materials have become better from the early lead free solder that developed cracks if you looked at it wrong.

I examined the board with a magnifying glass, it appears to be intact. I'll chalk this one up as a fluke and come back to it if it starts acting up more frequently.

Over the years I've tried a lot of waxes, this Sonax brand one used to be readily available in all the car stores and it cost something like 30€ a tin. I guess over the last 25 years people wax their cars with hard wax less and less and now I have to specifically order it. The price is over 100€ and the car finishing store guy could not believe what I use it for! #pinrepair